A thoroughly washed and properly dried coat will make the rest of the grooming much easier. Before you start to bathe your dog, the coat must be properly brushed with all the mats removed, ears cleaned, and nails cut. Cutting the nails before the bath will reduce the chances of cutting the quick.

After the bath, the blood vessels will be dilated due to the warm temperature of the water, making the blood pressure build up inside the nails. Besides, if you happen to have a little blood on the nail, it’s best to wash out the styptic powder used to stop the bleeding after a few minutes, preventing hair discoloration and any chance of your dog licking it.

Handling Your Dog

Place your dog in the bathtub on top of a nonslip surface. A loop leash or even an old leash around his neck will make the dog feel more comfortable by letting him know he can’t or shouldn’t go anywhere while being groomed. When on a leash, most dogs already know that they need to stay near you, so it’s recommended to use this trick during the bath. Some dogs react very quickly to a doorbell or a phone call, so having your dog on a leash will lower chances of him running out of the tub covered with soap and possibly becoming injured.

Setting Up Water Temperature

Start by letting the water run so your dog can get used to the noise of the flowing water. Check the water temperature and make sure it is comfortable. Lukewarm is the perfect water temperature. We love long hot showers. Dogs don’t.

Shampooing Your Dog

Wet the body first and leave the head for later, as many dogs panic when water is poured over their head. Make sure your dog is as calm as possible before slowly starting to wet his head. Keeping your dog’s head tilted slightly upward while running the water over his head will help prevent water from getting into his nose.

The best way to bathe your dog is to start by applying shampoo on the dirtiest areas first (such as paws, privates, and belly) to be sure that the shampoo has extra time to work its way into the coat for deep cleaning. The head and face have to be the last areas to get wet and shampooed and the first ones to be rinsed, to avoid excessive shaking and fewer chances for the shampoo to get in the eyes, ears, and mouth.

With the help of the correct size bathing brush, start by gently scrubbing the bottom of the paws, making sure no dirt is left in between the pads and the nails. With the coat wet, closely examine the skin for fleas, ticks, cuts, scratches, or any other skin abnormalities.

This is a good time to check your dog’s anal glands because all the secretions will flush down the drain with the bath. Once the body is perfectly scrubbed, move on to the head.

Rinsing

The dirtiest parts of the dog are the parts closest to the ground: the paws and belly. By rinsing in a head-to-tail, top-to-bottom direction, you keep the dirtiest water from washing over the cleaner areas. Use your free hand to move and massage the coat as you rinse, making sure the water penetrates to the skin and that the soap rinses out completely. Keep rinsing until the water rinses out clean. Shampoo left on your dog can cause itching or irritation of the skin.

Conditioning

Now that the coat has been properly shampooed and rinsed, it is time to apply the conditioner. Most breeds will benefit from the application of conditioner. Dogs with wiry coats, such as Jack Russells, Airedale Terriers, and other dogs with similar coats, can get away with just a good shampoo and no conditioner. Most others breeds, especially breeds with long and soft coats, require conditioner. Shampoo companies have invested a lot of time and money developing their products. For this reason, make sure to read and follow the manufacturer’s directions for optimal results. Overdiluted products will not deliver good results.